Smoke Taint in wine has been in research, from Forest Burn, and esp since 2003 with bushfires, and our recent Black Saturday in Victoria may very well have caused smoke taint, but not a certainty across many Vic wines. Only a small % of vineyards were ruined by the Black Sat smoke. I personally haven’t tried a smoke tainted wine yet from the recent 2009 vintages but would like to (probably would like to try a red over a white, as the idea of a smoke tainted Riesling is gross!).
Reverse Osmosis on the finished wine product seems to be the strategy most looked at for taking the smoke taint out of wines. It is too hard to try take that taint out of the wine before the finished product, as smoke taint has a few complicated compounds which are easier to find once the wine is produced. Also, smoke actually has a few of the same compounds that naturally occur in normal wine, further making it harder to find the unwanted smoke taint type compounds. Some of these compounds also come out of wine barrel maturation, but I’m guessing to a much smaller degree than from smoke.
I can see how smoke taint can ruin a white wine, especially a delicate white varietal. But I really want to try a smoke tainted red wine some time, even though it’s not favourable, to see what exactly it’s like.