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Last week Emmilou  hosted another wine dinner (http://www.emmilou.com.au/), matched to Stockman’s Ridge Wines from Orange (http://www.stockmansridge.com.au/). As people turned up we started trying the wines immediately and got some quiet time with the winemaker, Jonathan, before the place filled up. He makes wine without formal winemaking education and lab testings, and instead just uses his primal wine instincts. Stockman’s Ridge are a reasonably young/lesser known winery yet the diners really got into talking about them all night (perhaps the bountiful amount of booze flowing around also helped :-) Food was delicious as usual, and usually I’m not a huge fan of small dishes coming out periodically that make me feel anorexic, but this dinner left me feeling well fed! Menu with Stockman’s Ridge wines matched on the night:

Seared scallops, marinated prawns, Champagne sauce and Crispy leek – accompanied with the Pinot Gris: Very fresh pinot gris with plenty of citrus and crisp pear, good texture and mouthfeel to the wine, with the finish not harsh like some around this price point. Rrp about $20/bottle.

Jamon Serrano with Fresh Figs, Walnuts and Truffle Honey – accompanied with the Rider Zinfandel 2009:  Very approachable red wine – Great for anyone actually getting into red wine. Zinfandel is a very popular variety in America but there is not much grown in Australia at present. Attractive perfumed nose with floral notes, berries and sweet rhubarb. Palate light and fruity with red berries, soft tannins and a hint of herbs and spice which adds some dimension. Rrp around $20 per bottle. Can stick it in the cellar for some more years, but it’s very drinkable now. Emmilou already serves their Zinfandel by the glass.

16-Hour Pork Belly with Apple Coleslaw – accompanied with the Rider Merlot Cabernet Franc 2009: Has no sharpness that can come from elegant, austere wines. Nose is lifted with violet, raspberry, black fruit and plums. Palate has plums enveloped in subtle, silky and chalky tannins that give a slight grip to the wine, with subtle spices such as black pepper and cinnamon, oak is well integrated and adds to smoothness of the wine through to a decent finish. Great for those who find cabernet wines a little too astringent – this is a cabernet that’s very approachable. Rrp around $20/bottle.

Seared Blue Eye Trevalla, Braised Beef Short Rib, Asparagus and ‘Bacalao’ – accompanied with the Rider Shiraz 2008: This wine’s won 5 Gold, 5 Silver and 8 Bronze medals. Aromas of warm spices, dark berries, plums and cherries with some toasty character. Palate savoury and warm, with silky tannins well integrated into the wine, and concentrated red and black fruits. Rrp $25/bottle.

Trago River Blue Cheese with Guava Paste, Quince and Date Brioche – accompanied with the Outlaw Cabernet Sauvignon 2009: Full Cabernet style. Herbaceous and blackberry characters on the nose. Palate juicy with plenty of acidity and dark fruits, slightly grippy tannins and overall savoury character lasting through the length.

Instead of having the winemakers/reps stand and talk (and doing so while some tipsy patrons keep talking), the winemaker was going conversing around with each table separately so we could all ask questions and share entertaining stories… Both Emmilou restaurant and Stockman’s Ridge wines presented a fun and entertaining night. If you’re looking for a good value emerging winery from Orange it may fancy you to check out Stockman’s Ridge. And in the meantime I’ll tuck into Emmilou for some more soul-nourishing grub! Look forward to next time…

Cheers!

   I tried this variety at a Wine Ark tasting (http://wine-ark.com.au/) a while ago now and was suddenly drawn into this lesser-known grape variety from Italy. It was like getting bitten by the Pinot bug… Like a whole world opened up to me that I previously hadn’t got into – absolutely delicious! This was a 2004 Bressan Schippettino – vibrant and elegant. Had it again at the new wine bar, 121 BC / Vini (http://www.vini.com.au/), in Surry Hills where they stock it – worth a try (both the wine and the bar!).

   Bressan Schioppettino 2004 – Rarely seen in Australia is this wine from Friuli in northeast Italy. A pure, mouth-watering example of the hard to cultivate Schioppettino variety from Italy. Starting with a complex bouquet of aromatic wood, musk, lots of wild mixed berries and a whiff of cigar box, these characters then follow through the palate packed with flavour – but not jammy or over the top. This is all enveloped in velvety mouth feel, medium-body and a vibrant, long finish. Age has really let time do it’s thing, letting complexity evolve and soften but still remaining powerful – Excellent drinking now and over the next few years…

Cheers!

Paxton Wines from McLaren Vale

On a recent Wine Ark tasting (http://www.wine-ark.com.au/), winemaker David Paxton presented his wines with witty humour and a great response. As they say, “You can never go wrong with McLaren Vale” – yet he goes further than just good wine, exporting to many countries overseas and already grabbing 5 stars from Halliday’s winery ratings.  For the greenies, Paxton has also become the first member of 1% For the Planet (www.onepercentfortheplanet.org). Full biodynamic principles are embraced in Paxton wines which means nutrient-rich, healthy soils for the vines to grow from.

The wines on tasting were deeply appreciated, including the Elizabeth Jean Shiraz (very old fashioned and savoury characters, only 100 cases made in her name (D. Paxton’s mother), complete elegance), Jones Block Shiraz (vibrant, fruity shiraz with mocha, licorice and dark chocolate) and the AAA Shiraz Grenache, as below:

AAA McLaren Vale Shiraz Grenache, 2008 – I found the Shiraz Grenache outstanding value. Can drink now but it has way more to offer if you let it age over at least another 2 years. Nose is lifted, opulent and bright with red cherries and raspberries – but no where near a tacky fruit bomb (i.e. overly sweet). Palate has red cherries, warm christmas cake spices, very silky tannins, smooth oak and an elegant finish. Simply delicious! Great balance in a wine especially for $23 rrp, and being such a great wine this will age until 2020+. 14.5% alc.

Keep an eye out for these wines! http://www.paxtonvineyards.com/   (There’s also a little clip about them on their homepage)

Cheers.

Summerfield Wines

 “You see it sitting on the dining table in front of you. It is captivating, alluring, and you have been known to worship it from time to time. It nestles into your hand as though it has been crafted for you and you alone, and as you pour it into the glass and savour its aromas, you know you are going to remember this moment. As you take your first sip of the dark, velvety liquid you find yourself transcending time and space, absorbed by what took place to bring this bottle to your table… Craig Summerfield 2005

This is exactly how I feel about wine – Good wine. And Summerfield from Pyrenees is no exception (http://www.summerfieldwines.com/). Awarded 5 Stars from Halliday, the red wines from Summerfield all show a lifted, opulent nose combined with deep intense characters such as plum, mocha, oak and concentrated black and red fruits.

Mark Summerfield presented his wines at the Australian Museum Wine Ark tasting with an overwhelming response. Instead of following the strict rules of winemaking with chemical and pH analysis and tests, Mark is one that never attended a winemaking course and chews his grapes non-stop to determine the exact time to pick and make his wine. His technique has resulted in excellently reviewed wines, all presenting richness, elegance and luxurious balance. If I had to choose, these three wines were my top picks:

Summerfield Tradition 2008 - Shiraz (51%) Cabernet Sauvignon (23%) Merlot (18%) Cabernet Franc (8%) – lifted blueberry and violet characters combined with deep intense characters of plum, mocha, oak and concentrated black and red fruits. On the palate, all the same characters in concentration with warm spices and soft tannins, all in a long lasting finish. Drink or cellar up to 12+ years. Great value. Rrp $27. 

Summerfield Cabernet 2008 - Vibrant but lifted nose including violet, black fruits and vanillin oak with a hint of chocolate. Palate concentrated but soft and without the harshness that many cabernets below $30 have: intense plums, red fruits and black currant with deep complexity involving vanilla, spice, well integrated tannins, and a good rounded finish. Can drink or cellar up to 15 years… Great value. Rrp $27.

Summerfield Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 - Outstanding wine. Aromas of dark cherries, oak, black fruits and cocoa. Really plush palate of blackberries and mulberries with seamlessly integrated tannins and warm spices. Can drink from next year or cellar up to 15+ years. Rrp $50.

Cheers!

Recently went to Single Vineyard Sellers’ (http://www.singlevineyards.com/) tasting at the Hilton hotel, Sydney. With nearly 200 wines on tasting, there was a lot to taste with properly tasting each wine - 3 hours into the tasting I realised I wasn’t even halfway through! Many wines showed this and that, but one of the wineries I noticed was Dandelion Vineyards (www.dandelionvineyards.com.au/). I kept noticing their finesse and strength in their elegance in their Rieslings without looking at the labels. Upon getting around to the reds in tasting I also noticed their bold, powerful Shiraz, and again Dandelion Vineyards showed up on the labels…

They’re not a greatly famous winery, yet… I just read now that James Halliday has just included them in his top 10 best new wineries of 2011, in which he reviews: Dandelion Vineyards: McLaren Vale/Barossa Valley, SA … The wines range from conventional to unconventional. In the former category, the trophy-winning 2009 Wonderland of the Eden Valley Riesling. Unconventional is the 2007 Lion’s Tooth of McLaren Vale Shiraz, which is co-fermented with riesling. Everyone involved in the venture has a (real) day job that allows them the luxury of making small quantities of genuinely exciting wines.”

I also tried Paddy Borthwick wines from Wairarapa NZ. Paddy Borthwick’s international winemaking years certainly show in his impressively crafted boutique wines. In particular I enjoyed their elegant style pinot noir that leans away from the popular, sometimes overly fruity style (www.borthwick.co.nz/). These were in my top picks from the tasting:

Dandelion Vineyards – Wonderland of the Eden Valley 2010 - From their oldest Riesling vineyard. Nose is attractive and unobstructive – green apple, lime and floral notes. Palate overall clean stone fruit, citrus and lime, followed by a good finish with elegant, smooth minerality and lean acidity. rrp about $29.

Dandelion Vineyards – Red Queen of the Eden Valley Shiraz 2008 - A rich wine. Full of concentrated plums, raspberries, blackberries and prominent, firm, silky tannins with savoury and dark chocolate characters. Good length. Finish a little lean, has a lot more to show more with age. Should cellar for at least 5-10 years. rrp about $63.

Paddy Borthwick – Pinot Noir 2008 - Burgundian/elegant style pinot… Lifted bouquet on the nose, full of red cherries and black fruits. Complex palate with intensity of fruit alongside tobacco, spices and very silky tannins. Vibrant characters through to the finish, which sits beautifully. rrp about $48.
Cheers!

On tasting someone’s cellar I got to try some older semillon, which doesn’t occur so often as my white wine collection is tiny compared to the reds, and let alone aged in my cellar. Many underestimate the value of semillon in winemaking but it has it’s place, and semillon from Bordeaux and Sauternes in France is seen as the highest end of these wines with a very dear price for a single half bottle. Ranging from dessert to sweeter style table wine, to dry and minerally, it’s a great wine for those getting into more elegant style white wines as it doesn’t have pungent overpowering type characters.

Typically here we produce good semillon from the Hunter valley (such as Tyrrell’s – with their Vat 1 being one of the top collected semillon in Australia), Adelaide Hills, Barossa and Margaret river. The old semillon I got to try was Rockford Local Growers Semillon, Barossa Valley 1998 and 1999 vintages – This should have actually been drunk earlier but there were still some bottles that showed up decent. I preferred the 1999: Deep, golden lemon colour; attractive buttercup and almond on the nose and still with a freshness to it; on tasting palate was prominent buttercup still with vibrant lemon acidity, balanced with some weight described as a bit oily (in a good way), and overall good mouthfeel. Rrp about $20-25. Bargain!

Semillon is perfect on a summer day with fresh oysters – to smoked salmon or caviar (and gourmet seafood dishes i.e. seafood bisque, clam chowder) with the older wines – or cheese (such as blue, creamy or goats cheese) with the dessert wines (aka ‘stickies’) which of course also go with any desserts. Ideally a good semillon should be drunk under 10 years of age in Australia (and up to 20 years with Tyrrell’s Vat 1 for example) but tasting these older wines still showed me what it can offer… Looking forward to trying more aged semillon… Cheers!

New Zealand is fast developing world wide reputation for award winning Pinot Noir. Some even say NZ make the best Pinots other than Burgundy. The fussy-to-grow grape often produces unwanted ‘jamminess’ in many areas with warmer temperatures, with none of the finer characters that Burgundy Pinot is famous for. It’s transparent nature will also show any problems/faults that occurred throughout the terroir, growing, picking or winemaking processes, no matter what the winemaker tries to do. Many are averse to Pinot due to it’s “lightness” and softness, therefore thinking there’s not much going on, but once you realise what Pinot Noir offers in terms of complexity and depth, talented winemaking and darker characters such as liqorice, leather and earthiness (generally evident in the more expensive Pinots), you never turn your back on it again.

Now to the wines. Another fantastic Wine Ark tasting this year presented Akarua Pinot Noirs from Central Otago, New Zealand, with wine importer Tim Stock. Pinot is the largest grown red grape variety in NZ and Central Otago is the most accredited area for NZ Pinot. Akarua Wines (http://www.akarua.com/) aim to stay away from the NZ Pinots that taste like a big fruit bomb (overly sweet and tarty). Instead, they show pronounced elegance, complexity and length.

RUA PINOT NOIR 2009 - Red, ripe berries with lifted floral notes on the nose. On tasting, red and purple berry fruits, spices, velvety feel from the oak and overall a bright palate and finish. To be drunk young and fresh. Rrp around $30. 13.5% alc.

AKARUA PINOT NOIR 2009 - Red and darker black fruits on the nose with lifted floral notes. Ripe berries, oak more prominent than in the Rua, well integrated tannins, good texture and length. Can drink over the next 5 years. Rrp around $45. 14% alc.

AKARUA RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2009 - Stunning complexity with red cherries and earthiness on the nose. Palate is warm with spices and noticeable alcohol, in a soft oaky texture, subtle spice. Sits well, length long and refined. Rrp around $78. 14.7% alc.

Pinot Noir naturally don’t make cheap wines, but they can offer pretty good value for money. If these price points are a little high, I believe Eden Road “The Long Road” Pinot Noir is one of the best Pinots under $25 (http://sarahwinehouse.com/2010/11/15/eden-road-wines/). Cheers!

Pinot Meunier

   Pinot Meunier is a lesser known grape variety in general but can definitely make great wine. Also known as “black riesling”, this grape is also used in Champagne production along with chardonnay and pinot noir, often not mentioned much to give more attention to the other more well-known varieties. It is also not known to age well (generally), hence also not being well known. A straight pinot meunier red wine, made well, has great body and flavour intensity, but with a dry, slightly ‘old fashioned’ feel to it. It is comparable to pinot noir, but often with less tannin and a higher acidity level (pairing well with food).

   Now Best’s from Great Western (Victoria) happen to be sitting on some of the oldest Pinot Meunier plantings in the world! Dating back to 1867… Everyone should try a great Pinot Meunier at least once. Best’s Old Vine Pinot Meunier 2008 is a very interesting fine wine aged in French oak. It has cedar, fragrant spices and red and black cherries on the nose. On tasting I get bright red fruit flavour and fresh acidity, but with complexity, leanness in structure and flavour, slightly grippy tannins and a great finish. Great with small, delicate tapas or pate. Rrp about $65. The current 2008 vintage will cellar at least another 10 years.

Cheers

Wine words

Thought I’d start the first post in 2011 with some famous wine quotes (pictured is Bacchus, the God of wine).

 “In Victory, You Deserve Champagne, In Defeat, You Need It.” Napoleon

“Remember Gentlemen, it’s Not Just France We Are Fighting For, it’s Champagne!” Winston S. Churchill, 1918

When Lily Bollinger was asked “When do you drink champagne?”, she replied: “I only drink champagne when I’m happy, and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I am not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it – unless I’m thirsty.”

“Age Appears to be best in Four things – old wood best to burn, old wine to drink, old friends to trust, and old authors to read.” L. Bacon

“Wine has been a part of Civilized Life for some seven thousand Years. It is the Only beverage that Feeds the Body, Soul and Spirit of man and at the Same Time Stimulates the Mind.” Robert Mondavi, “Harvests Of Joy,” Autobiography

“In Europe we thought of Wine as something as Healthy and Normal as Food, and also a great Giver of Happiness and Well being and Delight. Drinking Wine was Not a Snobbism Nor a Sign of Sophistication Nor a Cult; it was as Natural as Eating and to me as Necessary.” Ernest Hemingway

“He who loves not wine, women and song remains a fool his whole life long.” Johann Heinrich Voss

“Good wine ruins the purse; bad wine ruins the stomach.” Spanish saying

“In water one sees one’s own face; But in wine, one beholds the heart of another.” Old French proverb

“Drink no longer water, but use a little wine for thy stomach’s sake and thine often infirmities.” 1 Timothy, 5:23

“Give strong drink unto him that is ready to perish, and wine unto those that be of heavy hearts. Let him drink, and forget his poverty, and remember his misery no more.” The Proverbs, 31:6-7

Cheers!

Also known as ‘Poor man’s Grange’… Penfold’s Bin 389 is a classic Cabernet Shiraz blend, punching well for it’s price point. The name ‘poor man’s Grange’ or ‘baby Grange’ comes from the fact that the wine was matured in the same oak as the world-famous Grange wines (about $499 to $thousands). First made in 1960 the Bin 389 has built a solid reputation as a classic South Australian wine, widely collected around the world, and for around $50 a bottle it’s pretty good. The cabernet retains elegance and fine complexity whilst the shiraz brings full flavour, warmth and spice. Generally you can buy a worthy 389 from most vintages and cellar it for a while (say, up to 15 years for a good vintage, and at least 5 years for any other vintage).

Now is the perfect time to drink the exceptional 1998 vintage, as tasted this week - Almost inky dark in colour, and a good old fashioned nose of cedar, dark chocolate and leather laced with vanilla and a few other spices. On tasting, full and complex but not overpowering flavour due to its age – everything that’s on the nose can be ‘tasted’ but with noticeable plums, blackberries, finely integrated but prominent tannins, pepper and I have to mention dark chocolate again, with a smooth finish that the tannins last through (tannins come from the skins of the grapes by the way, often noticeable in red wines, and can taste slightly ‘grippy’ or astringent, as the tannin molecules bind salivary proteins). Other great vintages include 2005, 2004, 1996 and 1990.

If you’re looking for an alternative around the same price point, also try the Metala Black Label, another excellent Cabernet Shiraz blend from Langhorne Creek (South Aus). Each bottle is individually numbered. Their White Label Cabernet Shiraz at around $20 is also a ripper (http://sarahwinehouse.com/2010/09/30/metala-wines-from-langhorne-creek/)

These wines are perfect with roast meat (especially lamb or a hearty style beef), cheeses, chocolate, dense Christmas puddings with cinnamon, or whatever as long as you like it!

Cheers! And Happy Holidays!!!

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