Archive for August, 2010


S.C. Pannell Wines (http://www.pannell.com.au/) – Stephen Pannell and co. came into the office last week with plenty of wine, in a silver tech suitcase sized thing which opened up at the top revealing a wine opener holder, cork holders, wine glasses, the lot – ready for action! This meant serious wine business.

Indeed interest was never to drift off with these quirky winemaker. S.C. Pannell wines are dynamic and different – bending Australia’s style and beliefs in wine (outside of the typical Big Bold Blousy Reds of Aus), and showing what we can grow in other styles of wine , yet somehow still retaining its authenticity and making it seem like it was meant to be a part of Australian wine a long time ago… Stephen also grew up in the family that founded Moss Wood wines, and has many many years of experience in Wirra Wirra, Hardy’s, Tintara, Domaine des Comtes Lafon (Burgundy), Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Bordeaux), G.D. Vajra (Barolo) and more… As well as winning the International red winemaker of the year (London), winning the Max Schubert Trophy Twice over (winemaker at Penfolds), the Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy just to name a few. Oh! And listed as one of the 50 Most Influential Contributors to the World of Wine by Decanter magazine.

So… S.C. Pannell Wines is the perfect example of his knowledge in the art of winemaking. Also – we need more winemakers like Stephen that’s trying new things and prove the rigid winemakers, with strict ideas in how wine should be made, wrong (not wrong but that their way is not the only way). Australia has much more to offer in our wine styles than most people realise.

As James Halliday has recently foretold, “This is a label which is well on the way to Icon-status”, and giving it 5 stars in his recent release of Australian Wine Companion 2010.

This was what I tasted, and the wines were intriguing and had a lot to offer:

Pronto Bianco, 2008 – A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Gris! Fruity but got good texture to it as well unlike a straight usual Sauvignon Blanc, well lined with a crisp acidity. Sells for about $21 – and worth it! Especially compared to the plenty of $20 Sauvignon Blanc wines around that aren’t actually that great.

Grenache Rose, 2009 – Old, Dry-grown bush vines, from McLaren Vale, which is impressive in the way it can grow Grenache (Garnacha). Sells for about $21. Lovely with a picnic or summer day drinks.

Pronto Tinto Red, 2008 - Aroma of fresh crisp strawberries, floral notes, and a hint of rosewater, leading to a dry finish. Predominatly Grenache, with some Touriga and Shiraz. Influence of Spain and Portugal through grape varieties. Eclectic taste of rose, musk, spices, and a little fruit but not much. From McLaren Vale, a 65 year old vineyard. No oak influence, therefore plenty of fruit on the palate. Sells for about $21 – great value!

Shiraz Grenache, 2006 - Concentrated flavour and colour a dark crimson red. Grenache lifts the nose giving perfume to the wine, with touched of musk and red berries, along with some more bold Shiraz aromas of cocoa, black cherry and small berries. Plenty of fruit freshness but with elegance. Earthy notes of oak and spice come in. Made from Old, Dry-grown bush vines, McLaren Vale. A little more Shiraz than Grenache. Both grape varieties were co-fermented in small open top fermenters, to help them both integrate well into each other. French oak influence. Will age for another 8+ years. Fantastic wine! Sells for about $38. Enjoy it with a nice dinner, such as tapas etc.

Grenache, 2006 - Deep colour, dense with crimson notes. Aroma is complex with many notes from forest fruits, earthy and leafy characters, and even a hint of rose… High amounts of juicy fruit (makes your mouth water), and a high amount of grippy tannins which adds appreciative texture to it’s rich palate, laced with herbs and spices. Tasty! And Great finish that lasts… Aged in French oak. Made from 67 year old bush-grown vines in the Vale. Can age for another 8+ years. Sells for about $56. Great wine to cellar.

Nebbiolo, 2007 - A blend of 5 different clones of the grape. Quite an elegant nebbiolo – highly perfumed with roses, cherries and hints of wet earth and leather. Powerful tannins along underlying cocoa and plush black fruits. From Adelaide Hills. Age for at least another 7 years. Sells for about $46. Great wine to cellar, and a great example of Australian Nebbiolo in its early history.

Shiraz, 2006 - Deep ruby red colour, and a finer, more elegant style Shiraz which is not really big on fruit flavour but more on the beetroot, pomegranite, leather and anise as well as other earthy notes… From old vineyards (one of them well over 100 years old), McLaren Vale. Will age for 8+ more years. Sells for about $56. Cellar it.

Cheers.

S.C. Pannell Wines (http://www.pannell.com.au/) – Stephen Pannell and co. came into the office last week with plenty of wine, in a silver tech suitcase sized thing which opened up at the top revealing a wine opener holder, cork holders, wine glasses, the lot – ready for action! This meant serious wine business.

Indeed interest was never to drift off with these quirky winemaker. S.C. Pannell wines are dynamic and different – bending Australia’s style and beliefs in wine (outside of the typical Big Bold Blousy Reds of Aus), and showing what we can grow in other styles of wine , yet somehow still retaining its authenticity and making it seem like it was meant to be a part of Australian wine a long time ago… Stephen also grew up in the family that founded Moss Wood wines, and has many many years of experience in Wirra Wirra, Hardy’s, Tintara, Domaine des Comtes Lafon (Burgundy), Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Bordeaux), G.D. Vajra (Barolo) and more… As well as winning the International red winemaker of the year (London), winning the Max Schubert Trophy Twice over (winemaker at Penfolds), the Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy just to name a few. Oh! And listed as one of the 50 Most Influential Contributors to the World of Wine by Decanter magazine.

So… S.C. Pannell Wines is the perfect example of his knowledge in the art of winemaking. Also – we need more winemakers like Stephen that’s trying new things and prove the rigid winemakers, with strict ideas in how wine should be made, wrong (not wrong but that their way is not the only way). Australia has much more to offer in our wine styles than most people realise.

As James Halliday has recently foretold, “This is a label which is well on the way to Icon-status”, and giving it 5 stars in his recent release of Australian Wine Companion 2010.

This was what I tasted, and the wines were intriguing and had a lot to offer:

Pronto Bianco, 2008 – A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Gris! Fruity but got good texture to it as well unlike a straight usual Sauvignon Blanc, well lined with a crisp acidity. Sells for about $21 – and worth it! Especially compared to the plenty of $20 Sauvignon Blanc wines around that aren’t actually that great.

Grenache Rose, 2009 – Old, Dry-grown bush vines, from McLaren Vale, which is impressive in the way it can grow Grenache (Garnacha). Sells for about $21. Lovely with a picnic or summer day drinks.

Pronto Tinto Red, 2008 – Aroma of fresh crisp strawberries, floral notes, and a hint of rosewater, leading to a dry finish. Predominatly Grenache, with some Touriga and Shiraz. Influence of Spain and Portugal through grape varieties. Eclectic taste of rose, musk, spices, and a little fruit but not much. From McLaren Vale, a 65 year old vineyard. No oak influence, therefore plenty of fruit on the palate. Sells for about $21 – great value!

Shiraz Grenache, 2006 – Concentrated flavour and colour a dark crimson red. Grenache lifts the nose giving perfume to the wine, with touched of musk and red berries, along with some more bold Shiraz aromas of cocoa, black cherry and small berries. Plenty of fruit freshness but with elegance. Earthy notes of oak and spice come in. Made from Old, Dry-grown bush vines, McLaren Vale. A little more Shiraz than Grenache. Both grape varieties were co-fermented in small open top fermenters, to help them both integrate well into each other. French oak influence. Will age for another 8+ years. Fantastic wine! Sells for about $38. Enjoy it with a nice dinner, such as tapas etc.

Grenache, 2006 – Deep colour, dense with crimson notes. Aroma is complex with many notes from forest fruits, earthy and leafy characters, and even a hint of rose… High amounts of juicy fruit (makes your mouth water), and a high amount of grippy tannins which adds appreciative texture to it’s rich palate, laced with herbs and spices. Tasty! And Great finish that lasts… Aged in French oak. Made from 67 year old bush-grown vines in the Vale. Can age for another 8+ years. Sells for about $56. Great wine to cellar.

Nebbiolo, 2007 - A blend of 5 different clones of the grape. Quite an elegant nebbiolo – highly perfumed with roses, cherries and hints of wet earth and leather. Powerful tannins along underlying cocoa and plush black fruits. From Adelaide Hills. Age for at least another 7 years. Sells for about $46. Great wine to cellar, and a great example of Australian Nebbiolo in its early history.

Shiraz, 2006 – Deep ruby red colour, and a finer, more elegant style Shiraz which is not really big on fruit flavour but more on the beetroot, pomegranite, leather and anise as well as other earthy notes… From old vineyards (one of them well over 100 years old), McLaren Vale. Will age for 8+ more years. Sells for about $56. Cellar it.

Cheers.

   Wine Ark (http://www.wine-ark.com.au/) had their usual tasting for their members, at the top of the Australian Museum (fantastic view! Overlooking St Mary’s Cathedral and Hyde Park). Line up of this tasting was Bannockburn (presented by winemaker Michael Glover), Larry Cherubino and Croft Port (presented by importer Matthew Quirk).

   Tasting was, as usual, splendid! First, was Bannockburn, with their winemaker presenting the wines – he’s a solid believer in corks over screw-caps, and is one of the few winemakers still abiding by the traditional use of corks. Next were the Larry Cherubino wines, which are highly regarded by experience from Larry himself. Then we had our chance to try some ports of distinction from Croft Port, in which the House of Croft was founded over three hundred years ago. Wine line up:

On arrival – The Yard, Whispering Hill Vineyard Riesling - Lime and mineral nuances with good, elegant length. Great starting wine. rrp $29.

Bannockburn – presented by winemaker Michael Glover  - All bannockburn wines are produced from estate-grown fruit off our 27 hectares of vines. The first vineyard was planted in 1974 with subsequent plantings during the early 1980’s, making them among the oldest in the Geelong region. Michael Glover’s philosophy is on terroir, and no irrigation of the vineyards, resulting in more concentrated berries due to the vines getting natural rainfall and nothing else, as opposed to winemakers trying to “manipulate” their vineyards by irrigating them and getting bigger berry yields – but this other method can also lose taste. http://www.bannockburnvineyards.com/
2009 Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc - much better than the tonnes of tacky Sauv Blanc around these days, and for those who drink Sauv Blanc this is a very good wine, completely different to Marlborough NZ. rrp $28.
2008 Bannockburn Chardonnay – Serious Chardonnay, like a Pinot Noir with the soil in which it’s grown in. Texture and length very good (with 2 years on lees, which adds creamy characters). “Iron Fist in a Velvet Glove” sort of wine. rrp. $54.
2006 Bannockburn S.R.H. Chardonnay - using grapes sourced from their oldest Chardonnay vines at Olive Tree Hill Vineyard. Named in recognition of Bannockburn founder, Stuart Reginald Hooper. Also “Iron Fist in a Velvet Glove” with powerful but elegant texture and length. rrp $79.
2007 Bannockburn Pinot Noir – Definitely “Iron Fist in a Velvet Glove” with fragrant juicy berries, leather, and savoury notes and spices, overall a lovely texture and length. A difficult year for Pinot. rrp $58.
2006 Bannockburn Bruce Cabernet Blend – got to love the name Bruce for a big red wine, and this was Big. Powerful mouthwatering red fruit and strong tannins, with elegance that somehow comes into this bold wine – and great value for $25!! Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Shiraz blend, will age well for another few years. rrp $25.

Larry Cherubino – who’s one of Australia’s most acclaimed winemakers. http://www.larrycherubino.com/
2009 The Yard 24 Road Vineyard Chardonnay – Elegant with white nectarines and other stone fruits, with underlying oak. Can age well over more years. rrp $30
2008 The Yard Acacia Vineyard Shiraz - Bright colour and bright palate. Bouquet is intense with chemical notes and black fruits. Charry oak and plenty of tannin driving the palate along with berry fruits and touches of spice leaving a warm and generous finish. Would like to put this down for a few more years. rrp $36.
2007 Larry Cherubino Shiraz – Bright and fragrant with dark chocolate, raspberry and a touch of spice. On the palate good oak comes through juicy dark fruits and a good amount of tannins. Would like to put this down for a few more years. rrp $70.
2007 Larry Cherubino Cabernet Sauvignon – uplifted fragrant bouquet, concentrated on the palate blackcurrant with a slight green youngness to it and cedary notes to add complexity. Needs to age longer and would love to review again in 2 years. rrp $80

Croft Port - The Croft family played a prominent and influential role in the Port wine trade, and has an important place of distinction to to this day in the world of port. Port is a perfect accompaniment to choclate and desserts. Once opened, it does not need decanting and will stay fine for up to 6 weeks (a good port). http://www.croftport.com/
NV Croft Pink Port – I got to admit this was a little funny to me, but it does have a place, and is a great port to get into if you’re not into port. http://www.croftpink.com/ rrp $42
MV Croft Distinction Reserve Port – Red in colour with intense fresh fruit aromas and sweet but deep oaky flavours. rrp $60
NV Croft 10 Year old Tawny Port - NV (non-vintage) a blend of different years, aged for an average of 10 years in oak casks, then bottled for immediate drinking. Rich mellow fruit with a slight nuttiness in an overall concentrated palate. rrp $89
2007 Croft Vintage Port 375mL – Like grape essence syrup, but with savoury oaky tones. Rich blackcurrant and cherries, but with firmness and a good tannic structure. This wine is only created from a single vintage/year and from Coft, only in the best vintages. Cellars well for more than 10 years. rrp $80
2007 Croft Vintage Port 750mL – same as above. rrp $150+
2007 Croft Vintage Port Magnum - same as above. rrp $300+

I am now working for Wine Ark (as I said I’d declare if I’m working with a company I mention on here) and can say for myself that I’m thoroughly impressed by what they offer… A little about them: Wine Ark is Australia’s forefront for wine collectors and perfect cellaring of wines, for example with private access wine vaults any time until midnight. For wine collectors, their extensive range of vintage wine functions like an exchange market, allowing buyers to purchase directly from thousands of clients who store wine in Wine Ark’s climate controlled cellars, and giving members access to some of the world’s most sought after/difficult to obtain wines. Also by buying direct, retail mark ups are avoided. Wine cabinets (Vintec and Transtherm) and other premium wines are also available. http://www.wine-ark.com.au/

Cheers!

Steel Bar and Grill in Sydney CBD (http://www.steelbarandgrill.com/) held the Burgundy/Cote d’Or Masterclass hosted by Benjamin Leroux – an expert in winemaking and French wines, and a negociant (French term for a wine merchant who buys produce of smaller growers/winemakers and sells the resulting wines under their own name), and also converts many of his growers to organic practices when possible, as well as biodynamic (which whether you believe it or not, can definitely make a difference even in blind tastings). The result is spectacular, typically French, long-lived expressive wines…

From a very young age Benjamin’s been into wine. He believes in the absolute minimum intervention with the grapes growing and wine making, so that the wine can express itself and it’s terroir. I was surprised to taste two wines from the same region growing the same grape taste totally different to each other, and they were grown only about 50m away from each other! Now that’s excellent winemaking.

Now to the wines in the masterclass!

First were of course the whites, followed by the reds. Burgundy’s white wines are Chardonnay, and Burgundy’s reds, Pinot Noirs. We tasted 7 Chardonnays, and 9 Pinot Noirs. All stunning. Below are my personal notes about the wines:

CHARDONNAY:

2008 Benjamin Leroux Borgogne Blanc – Bright and pronounced citrus and gooseberry nose, with bold mouthfeel and creamy intensity. Great length. RRP $50.

2008 Benjamin Leroux St Aubin Les Murgers Des Dents De Chien 1er Cru – (1er Cru is Premier Cru, meaning a good wine) Yeasty Bready nose, but fresh, like an ocean breeze (personal description), with mineral characteristics. On tasting, also mineral with a linear, clean structure and finish. Wine grown in Limestone soils, which add that minerality. RRP $95.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Meursalt Les Vireuils – Citrus, with slight sweetness on the nose. Creamy rich flavour but with acidity which adds fresh flavours. Wine grown in Limestone soils, which add elegance to this wine. RRP $120.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Meursalt Narvaux – Reserved nose that wasn’t overly pronounced, with grassy characteristics. Creamy on palate, which was more rounder than the Les Vireuils wine above. RRP $120.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Pugliny Montrachet – Lots of acidity and freshness. Rich soil gives a ‘fat’ wine (fuller mouthfeel). Powerful and clean edged finish. RRP $120.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines – Sweeter on the nose than above Puglinby Montrachet wine, with toast and goosberry and a touch of honey. Stone fruits and sweet characters on the palate with a long and elegant finish. RRP $165.

The wines above and below (Baudines and Embrazes respectively) are only 50m apart, but have turned out almost completely different wines that both represent their terroir.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazes – Nice perfumed bouquet on the nose with some fresh fruits, but then more savoury, stony and mineral characteristics, and elegant structure on the palate. RRP $165.

PINOT NOIR:

2008 Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Rouge – Bright cherries on nose with underlying earthiness. Structure, acid and berry flavours give freshness to it. RRP $45.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Savigny – This wine is the classic benchmark of wine from Savigny, of what a Savigny should taste like. Soft body with generous fruit, complexity and good length. RRP $78.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Savigny 1er Cru Hauts Jarron – Really enjoyed this one – Wet leather and earthiness on the nose, juicy berries (the sort of flavour that makes your mouth water) and oak, with a smooth and long length. RRP $95.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Volnay – Slightly candied cherry on the nose with earthiness. Ripe plummy, blackberry flavours with good levels of tannin. 20% limestone in the soils adds a more mineral style. Long length. RRP $95.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Volnay 1er Cru Clos Cave des Ducs - Biodynamic site. Wood and slightly dusted aromas, with fruity and floral touches, and even some vegetal characteristics – also on palate. Long, solid, savoury length. RRP $149.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Gevrey Chambertin – Very earthy, but with fresh fruity berries on the nose, softer well rounded palate with plummy and blackberry/black cherry concentrated flavour. RRP $114.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Mazoyeres Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru - Organic site. Highly perfumed, lifted nose with wood and bright berries. Bursting with black fruits on palate with savoury and oaky tones underlying. RRP $289.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru – An absolute favourite! Earthy, Musky, Savoury and Plummy, with Floral tones on the nose. Flavours of plums, black cherries, and not so tannic. Savoury and very pleasant finish. RRP $319.

2008 Benjamin Leroux Bonnes Mares Grand Cru - Organic site. Perfumed, with complex sweet and savoury characters on the nose, including cured meat and bread. On tasting, vibrant red berries and plums, with tannins and a mineral earthiness which brings elegance to the wine. RRP $339.

A wine seller/info site http://www.internationalfinewines.com.au/ says that “One of the most anticipated releases from Burgundy last year was the first set of wines under the Benjamin Leroux label. We can’t recall another set of Burgundies that sold as quickly (literally in a matter of days) and rarely have we had so much positive feedback from our customers on one set of wines. The good news is that we are now excited to announce the second release of these outstanding Burgundies.” And I couldn’t agree more…

Cheers.

Yarra Yering, as the name implies, is from Yarra Valley in Victoria. If you’re not already familiar with Yarra Yering they make wines of distinction, with very low yields, very deep flavour and richness in both red and white wines that reflect Victoria’s elegant wine producing terroir.

This Underhill Shiraz has a lot of ripe juicy fruit flavour and chewy tannins, but with a more savoury dark chocolate and oak laying as its base. Length on the palate is long, and 9 years later this is perfect drinking time now. Back vintages are available from 2001 to 2007.

Yarra Yering have a good range of eclectic fine wines, including what I like to compare together of the Dry Red No. 1, 2 and 3.

Wine / Winery: Underhill Shiraz 2001 / Yarra Yering, Briarty Road Gruyere, Victoria 3770
Price: $89.00
Value: Reasonable, for a unique wine
Website: http://www.yarrayering.com/

Cheers.

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